Sway Bar Links Won't Tight. Truck Keeps "Clanking

July 4, 2024, 8:21 pm

I don't know if it would be a problem or not. So I was installing my moog sway bar links today, and when I put the bolt through the sway bar it did not reach all the way through the bottom hole. Bring that down through the end of the sway bar. The washers should be installed so they "cup" the bushing (curve around the bushing slightly). But considering the axle tilts side to side and the sway bar has to also, I think the bushings are gone... sure I follow on the need to lift the truck a bit. The OEM nuts are tightened to 13 lb ft of torque, but I seriously doubt that would apply to the aftermarket solution (everything is different). It holds it, while you use a wrench to turn the flange nut.

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While not using a spacer at all does prevent getting things aligned like OEM, it didn't seem like anyone ever had any issues (from the old threads), so it probably would work OK. - The Energy Suspension sway bar end link bushings do NOT need to be greased. Replacing the sway bar link/stabilizer bar on the Hyundai car is easy and can be completed in under two hours. Drive the car up onto ramps (you don't have to if you can reach everything to tighten the nut when your car is at normal height on the ground). If you want strong endlinks that last, I would consider hitting up. The car should have the full weight on the suspension. Last edited by kdepew; 01-10-2021 at 05:57 PM.

A few weeks ago I ordered sway bar end links. If you did this part right... you either got the wrong part from wherever you bought it or Your going to need to add a few washers to take up the slack... Or you could go to a Pep Boys, Auto Zone or whatever your local auto parts store is and pick up a new set of generic prothane end links and bushing set, Real easy install and they work.... 03-15-2016, 09:52 PM. Then, to fight weight transfer and vehicle lean, we connect both sides of the independent suspension system with a sway bar making them less independent. Hopefully this helps someone. To add onto this, don't tighten down too hard. It all depends on the sway bar bracket bushings - whether they are made of rubber or if they are greased polyurethane. What are the symptoms of a bad sway bar link on a Hyundai? While it generally takes about 14-foot pounds of pressure to tighten the nut down, there is an easy way to ensure you don't overtighten the bolt that doesn't require the use of a torque wrench. You feel every bump and hear loud noises from the car's front end. I made sure it's real tight with the wrench.

As the sway bar link breaks, you will feel a significant change in your car's behavior. However, installing from the bottom means the bolt sticks up higher on the top. Could having both be limiting my suspension travel (compression) since the endlinks are so long? They would probably work fine, but it made more sense to use Grade 8/C nuts. Measure the ride height before the service. However, a defective stabilizer can also cause this problem. It is important that they are fitted and tightened with a torque wrench to get the right fit. The driver side went on just fine. Other suspension problems. Grade 8 is stronger than Grade 5 or standard bolts/fasteners. However, that would reduce clearance between the axle and the sway bar end link on the top.

The content contained in this article is for informational purposes only and should not be used in lieu of seeking professional advice from a certified technician or mechanic. Installing from the bottom should be MUCH easier. Create an account to follow your favorite communities and start taking part in conversations. I'm gonna go drive it now to see how it feels. Third, after you removed the bottom endlink bolt, the endlink itself will most likely stuck in the swaybar. See where it's sloping up? Would need a small torque wrench, probably an inch pound one because they are smaller. Do this to the top and bottom of the link, and once both nuts are removed, remove the sway bar link.

Last edited by codenamezero; 06-24-2014 at 05:09 PM. Next bring another bushing up and a washer behind it (if the bushings have small rim/lip on them that rim/lip fases the sway bar and control arms) Next slide that long tube up the bolt till it touches that last washer. How Do Sway Bar Links Go Bad? 07-07-2015 02:56 AM. I am NOT certain exactly how much torque you should use on the nut for the final install. Adjustable-length end links allow us to install a sway bar without any tension in a static setting. It is just you might not have enough threads without compressing with the C-clamp before anything is tightened. 05-14-2012 12:26 PM.

We only want the sway bar to begin to work when we really need it to, in a corner. Hopefully that makes sense. What Is A Sway Bar And What Does It Do? A 4-1/2" angle grinder with a cutting disc. I upgraded mine but went with Prothane instead of the moog, I didn't want the same as oem with a different name stamp on them.... Don't forget on those that you must have a wrench to hold the main stem or it will just spin and never get tight.... What Are the Advantages of MOOG Bolt Style Sway Bar Links? Trying to turn the nut onto the stud of the ball joint, while trying to counterturn the stud to keep it still. Once the nut reaches the lock nut, wrench the nut tight to the vehicle manufacturer recommended torque values, changing wrenches as needed to fit the new sway bar link nut. The uppers have a built in hex on the bolt side to hold it place while you tighten nit on top, but the lowers do not (circled in red). And in order to get the nut to tighten, you need to hold that pin in the middle. Better that risking cutting through the fastening points. Depending on the road condition and environmental factors, they can go bad even earlier. Oxy-Acetylene torches, too.

Slide the bolt down in the hole in the lower control arm and then put on the last bushing on followed by the last washer and then the nut. There is a possibility that you might be able to feel some clunking on the steering wheel if they are worn out and have a lot of play. Sometimes that's true and sometimes that's not true. These should work fine. It was the pinion seal and it was just easier to get at with the rear out since I don't have a lift. Sway Bar Link Installation Tip.

Replacing Sway Bar End Links. I removed the nuts on the original sway bar end links for BOTH sides before removing the original bolts. However, I can read, and I've read everything I can find on the Toyota 4Runner front swaybar bushings. You have to come in at an angle. Both of my front endlinks broke when I tried to take them out, too, but neither of my rear endlinks did.
However, by that time, I've already detached the endlink at the top, which makes it difficult/impossible to hammer the bottom endlink out, because everything is loose. I would not have attempted my coilover install without it. Here the bar is allowed to rotate allowing for undulations in the suspension.
I did not fully tighten it at this point. As I undid the nuts though they became too tough and the allen key started slipping. The axle is fairly close to the bolt. Thanks for any info.

Recently, we have been on a quest to cover all the suspension problems one could think of here on Lifeonfour. AIM me and I will help you. That's why just going be thread length can be bad. I never really looked under neath my car to verify. A lift at work is definitely nice. The rear you can lift from the pumpkin. In that case, cut them off with the cutting wheel on the Dremel. 6. yeah but where do you put the allen wrech? You'll want the bar sloping down so just flip it so the PS is on the DS. Luckily (thanks Texas weather), mine didn't look as bad as some of the ones in previous threads from much newer cars (a long time ago) and I didn't have corrosion on my originals.

Thus, most people who bought the kit purchased their own bolts and most simply didn't use the spacer, so there is no reason to pay more for that kit. I doubt this is critical. I used an impact gun to turn the bolt from underneath while I held the nut at the top with a combination wrench. The kit with black bushings is part number 9. More details in this thread: Bear in mind, according to Domenic at Prothane, the bushings should have a 20 thousandths (1/2mm) "preload", which means they should be smaller than the actual diameters of the rods by that much.